Covered Passages Around the Grands Boulevards: Jewels of the 9th Arrondissement

The Covered Passages: Hidden Treasures of 19th-Century Paris

Behind the Haussmannian facades of the Grands Boulevards in the 9th arrondissement, a parallel world awaits strollers seeking authenticity: the covered passages. These prestigious shopping arcades, built between the late 18th century and the Second Empire, embody the essence of 19th-century Parisian life. A veritable living museum, they foreshadow modern department stores and shopping malls, while retaining an inimitable charm and a hushed atmosphere that transports visitors back several decades.

History: The Birth of the Ancestors of Shopping Centers

During the Belle Époque, Paris boasted as many as 70 covered passages.

These visionary arcades were created to allow the Parisian bourgeoisie to move about the capital on foot without braving the elements, muddy streets, or the hustle and bustle of city traffic. By 1850, more than 30 arcades enlivened the neighborhoods, embodying the urban innovation of their time. With the arrival of Haussmann's urban renewal projects and competition from department stores (Galeries Lafayette, Printemps), the majority of the arcades disappeared. However, 21 arcades still exist in Paris today, mostly concentrated in the 2nd and 9th arrondissements. These survivors remain precious witnesses to historic Paris, offering an authentic glimpse into the commercial elegance of the 19th century. The Passage des Panoramas: The Oldest Still Standing Built in 1799, the Passage des Panoramas is the oldest covered arcade in Paris. Its name comes from the two large rotundas that once adorned its entrance, designed to display panoramas—popular visual attractions at the time showcasing views of Paris, Toulon, Rome, and Jerusalem. In 1816, this passage became the first in Paris to be illuminated by gas lamps, marking an urban technological revolution. At 133 meters long and with its magnificent glass roof, this passage offers an unparalleled sensory experience. The Théâtre des Variétés, founded in 1807, adds its seal of artistic prestige. The passage still houses the famous Stern engraving shop, dating from the early 19th century, and the "L'Arbre à Cinnamon" tea room, which retains the period decor of the former Marquis chocolate shop. The passage also remains a favorite haunt of Parisian philatelists, who flock to its shops selling stamps and antique postcards. Access: Rue Saint-Marc, Rue Vivienne, Rue Montmartre, or Boulevard Montmartre. Open from 6:00 a.m. to midnight.

Passage Jouffroy: The Romantic Soul of the Grands Boulevards

Created in 1836, the Passage Jouffroy embodies Parisian romanticism. It is the covered passage that has most faithfully preserved its old-world atmosphere: iron and glass architecture, white and gray marble floors with subtle geometric patterns, and above all, an extraordinary diversity of charming boutiques.

This passage, the first built entirely of iron and glass, remains a must-see destination for travelers seeking authenticity. Here you'll find:

• Gingerbread (#29): An Aladdin's cave of vintage toys, miniatures, cuddly toys, and decorative items. A child's paradise that adults love too!
• La Boite à Joujoux (#41): Antique toy and curiosity shop, a haven of nostalgia
• Segas (#34): Specialist in antique and collectible walking sticks
• Hôtel Chopin: A romantic establishment that transports its guests to the era of Chopin himself
• Musée Grévin: Whose entrance opens directly onto the passage, offering 200 wax statues of celebrities
• Le Salon des Miroirs: Exhibition and relaxation space

  Access: 10-12 Boulevard Montmartre, Grands Boulevards metro station (lines 8, 9). The Passage Jouffroy extends directly from the Passage des Panoramas and the Passage Verdeau, creating an uninterrupted strolling circuit.

  The Passage Verdeau: A Passage for Discerning Collectors

  Less well-known than its illustrious neighbors, the Passage Verdeau (built in 1847) possesses its own discreet charm. Located directly adjacent to the Passage Jouffroy, this light-filled passage with its elegant glass roof and refined metal framework attracts a clientele of passionate collectors.

  Here reigns an atmosphere of studious tranquility, conducive to discovery: booksellers specializing in rare books and vintage postcards, art dealers, and antique shops stand alongside contemporary art galleries. It is the ideal place to hunt for rare treasures and unearth gems from the past.

  Access: 6 rue de la Grange Bâtelière and 31 bis rue du Faubourg Montmartre. Metro: Richelieu-Drouot (lines 8, 9).

  Architecture and Light: Parisian Genius

  What distinguishes Parisian covered passages is their visionary use of the zenithal skylight—a glass structure covering the entire gallery and allowing for unparalleled natural illumination. This unique light, filtered through the glass, creates a magical atmosphere where time seems to stand still.

  The architecture combines elegance and functionality: imposing pilasters, ornamental ironwork, geometric mosaics on the floor, and often sculptures or bas-reliefs that recall the commercial prosperity of these places.

  The sloping roofs, metal frames, and glass facades create an architectural syntax unique in Europe, which explains their heritage status.

  An Unforgettable Stroll: The Three Passages in a Loop

  The urban genius of the Grands Boulevards lies in the continuity between these three passages. Starting from Rue Vivienne or Boulevard Montmartre, you can cross the Passage des Panoramas, continue through the Passage Jouffroy with its diverse shops, and then finish with the Passage Verdeau and its more contemplative atmosphere—all without ever stepping outside.

  This 30- to 60-minute walk (depending on how much time you spend window shopping) offers a true immersion in 19th-century Parisian elegance. The restaurants tucked away in the arcades offer delightful breaks: traditional brasseries, historic tea rooms, and lively little bistros.

  Must-See Shops and Restaurants Recommendations

  Absolutely Must-Explore:

  • Passage Jouffroy - Pain d'Épices: Vintage toy shop, rare soft toys, miniatures
  • Passage des Panoramas - Stern: 19th-century engravings and prints
  • Passage des Panoramas - L'Arbre à Cannelle: Charming tea room preserving its period decor
  • Passage Jouffroy - Hôtel Chopin: Romantic getaway or visit to the hotel
  • Passage Jouffroy - Musée Grévin: 200 wax statues, a playful and entertaining atmosphere
  • Passage des Panoramas - Victoria Station: Original restaurant with a historic dining car
  • Passage des Panoramas - Bar des Variétés: Refined French burgers, chic bistro atmosphere

  Beyond the Three Passages: The Grands Boulevards Ecosystem

  Beyond the covered passages, the Grands Boulevards offer a dense cultural network: Folies Bergère, museums (Fragonard Perfume Museum, Grévin Museum), theaters (Palace, Théâtre des Variétés), iconic cinemas (Grand Rex with its Art Deco style). The neighborhood embodies a rich urban life where boutiques, restaurants, entertainment, and culture coexist harmoniously.

  Just Steps From the Hotel R de Paris

  From the Hotel R de Paris, located in the heart of the 9th arrondissement less than a 10-minute walk from the covered passages, you can access this magical world of historic Paris. This unique proximity makes it an ideal starting point to explore the passages at your own pace, then return to relax in the refined comfort of the hotel.

  Practical Tips for an Unforgettable Visit

  • Opening Hours: Most of the passages are open from 6:00 a.m. to midnight. Shops: 10am-7pm generally (check for specialty shops)
  • Access: Metro Grands Boulevards (lines 8, 9) or Richelieu-Drouot (lines 8, 9)
  • Recommended time: 1 hour minimum for the three passages, 2-3 hours for a complete visit including shopping and a tea room
  • Best time to visit: Weekdays and outside of peak hours to enjoy the peace and quiet
  • What to bring: Camera, small notebook to jot down must-see addresses
  • Shoes: Comfortable shoes for strolling without fatigue on the marble and historic cobblestones
  • Food break: Book the most popular restaurants in advance

  The Covered Passages: A Paris Timeless The covered passages of the 9th arrondissement are not merely places of commerce or transit. They embody a Parisian way of life where strolling is an art, where architectural details tell stories, and where every shop, every restaurant, every corner of light and shadow transports the visitor back several centuries. From the Hôtel R de Paris, set off to discover these secret gems of Paris and let yourself be captivated by the timeless magic of the capital.