A name borrowed from the Neva, the Russian river; a chef who grew up in her parents' restaurants in Cozumel, Mexico; a menu that changes with the seasons. Néva Cuisine is hard to sum up in a single label, and it is our restaurant of the month for October. The dining room is at 2 rue de Berne, in Paris's 8th arrondissement, just beyond the edge of the 9th: from Hôtel R de Paris, at 41 rue de Clichy, it is a walk of less than ten minutes.

One thing to know before you plan your visit: the restaurant only serves on weekdays, at lunch and dinner.

Beatriz González, from Cozumel to rue de Berne

Beatriz González first saw cooking from the inside, in the restaurants her parents ran in Cozumel. At 18, she joined the Institut Paul Bocuse. She has worked at Orsi, Sanderens, Lucas Carton and La Grande Cascade. She opened Néva Cuisine with her husband, Matthieu Marcant, and the restaurant has now been open for more than ten years.

Seasonal, colorful cooking that resists easy labels

The Guide Michelin sees a modern bistro with colorful, many-sided seasonal cooking. The dishes it has noted give an idea of the style: a toasted brioche with king prawns, smoked avocado and citrus broth, or a rack of pork with parsley and apricot and a frothy munster sauce. Gault&Millau, for its part, noted a sea bream tiradito and a ballottine of rabbit saddle. These are pointers to the style, not the current menu: it changes with the seasons.

Two set menus and a five-course tasting menu

The offer shown on the restaurant's website is easy to follow: starter and main course, or main course and dessert, at €39; starter, main course and dessert at €48; a five-course tasting menu at €65. A food and wine pairing at €35 is listed for dinner.

For a lunch between two appointments, the two- or three-course set menus are the simplest option.

Practical information

  • Address: 2 rue de Berne, 75008 Paris (8th arrondissement)
  • Opening hours: Monday to Friday, 12pm to 2pm and 7:30pm to 10pm; closed on Saturday and Sunday
  • Booking: by phone on 01 45 22 18 91 or via the Néva Cuisine website
  • From the hotel: less than ten minutes on foot

To discover Parisian gastronomy beyond rue de Berne during your stay, our guide to the restaurants and bars in the neighborhood takes over.

Last month's restaurant was Perception, chef Sukwon Yong's French-Korean table.